Mardi Gras Indians: can cultural appropriation occur on the margins?

(image via http://library.duke.edu)

Last week, the New York Times published a really interesting article concerning Mardi Gras Indians, specifically looking at the possibility of  the "Indians" copyrighting their costumes so their images can't be used in things like calendars, promotional materials, etc, without their consent. I'll get to that issue in a second post, but I think the entire concept of Mardi Gras Indians deserves a deeper look.

Let's look at the 'culture' of the Mardi Gras Indians, independent of history and context (something the anthropologist in me cringes at, but work with me), then we'll backtrack a bit.

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Random Appropriation of the Day!

Via my friend Allison's friend Kip--taken in Versailles, France. If you can't tell, the orange peel is wearing a headdress, and the flavor is called "Indien" (you can click to make it bigger). It's flavored with grenadine, which gives it the pinkish-red color. I was sitting here, trying to figure out the connection between grenadine and Indians--like were pomegranates indigenous to the New World or something? But grenadine is a French word!

Then my friend was like "duh Adrienne, they called it Indian because it's RED."

Sometimes, I guess I forget that not everything requires deep analysis and interpretation. Sometimes, it's just straight up racist. Insensitivity ftw!

Also, if anyone out there speaks French and I'm missing something, please let me know.

(Thanks Allison!)

Random Appropriation of the Day! Dreamcatcher=all inclusive Native traditions

I remember seeing this sign at the entrance to the campus health center, and raising my eyebrows at the randomness and hypocrisy of it all, but only when Leon sent it over, did I start to realize how straight-up nonsensical it is.

I am, of course, referring to that dream catcher.

I would assume that we're supposed to believe that these are all "Healing Traditions" supported by the health center--but honestly, can we put massage and chicken soup on the same level as Native spiritual traditions? And how is a dreamcatcher representative of healing/medicine in any Native community?

And as Leon pointed out: "not sure when Vaden has ever incorporated "Native healing traditions" in its services, much less, helped a Native out before...but apparently they like to say they do." I don't think anyone would argue that Vaden is anything less than a western-style medical facility, and I know the Native community has come up against some issues there, especially in the mental health services. Not exactly incorporating Native healing traditions.

I can just picture the meeting where they were developing this campaign: "so we've got the Eastern traditions represented with a buddah and some non descript written asian characters...we should throw something Native American up there. ideas?" "what about a dream catcher? that's Indian!"

Overall, just a weird, silly, way for them to proclaim understanding and multiculturalism by relying on a ubiquitous stereotype.

(Thanks Leon!)

Tribal Fashion Roundup!

(http://www.etsy.com/shop/coyotepheonix)

I've gotten a few tips this week about more tribal fashion appropriations, so I thought I would compile a few of them into a single post, because let's be honest, I'm a little lazy this week.

I found the image above thanks to Lanova posting my hipster headdress piece on a blog that "loved" this headdress (thanks girl!). It's from Coyote Pheonix's Etsy shop, and the description reads:

Great piece for burningman or other festivals. Looks great as a decoration piece hanging on the wall as well. Ties at the base of the neck like a headband with leather strap.

Also, one of the tags on the headdress is "shaman". Ok, appropriations aside, are there actually people out there who see this, swoon, and say "I must have this! my life is not complete until I have a dead coyote to wear on my head!". But, I guess, considering 14% of this fine nation thinks President Obama is, in fact, the Antichrist, I wouldn't be surprised that such people exist (related? not at all. but I just read these poll results, so...).

This one comes from my sister's fabulous suitemate Kathleen:

Belt and keychains from Jack Spade in Soho, website here. These seem pretty out of place with the whole Jack Spade asthetic, to me anyway. They're known for their preppy men's bags and accessories, with military inspirations and "timeless" pieces. Not usually what we'd associate with the Native trends. interesting.

Finally, a picture of a page from Lucky Magazine via my friend Genia (click to make it bigger):

The mocassins front and center are the Nicole Richie mocs I posted earlier, and there's a pendleton bag on the left. I love how Native American trends are "global"--um, you can't get more American than the styles of the original peoples in the US.

Just a few samples of many...I think I could start an entire blog of just Native Appropriations in fashion. sigh. 

Coyote headdress post: http://teenangster.net/2010/03/coyote-phoenix/

Earlier posts:
Tribal Fashion, the newest trend?: http://nativeappropriations.blogspot.com/2010/01/tribal-fashion-newest-trend.html

Nicole Richie's baby mocs: http://nativeappropriations.blogspot.com/2010/02/nicole-richies-baby-mocs.html

The Strange Case of the Hipster Headdress: http://nativeappropriations.blogspot.com/2010/02/strange-case-of-hipster-headdress.html

(Thanks Lanova, Kathleen, and Genia!)

Random Appropriation of the Day!

Feather lollipop, anyone?

Photo taken by my friend (and prolific contributor!) Leon at Casa de Fruta in Gilroy, CA--it's kinda like a touristy pit stop as you're headed out of Northern California towards SoCal. He looks a bit annoyed, doesn't he?

(Thanks Leon!)

Really? Amy Poehler? A headdress, really?

(http://peteryang.com/images/a7/x_amy.jpg)

Amy, you're funny. I like you. But the headdress? It's not irreverent, it's not quirky, it's not funny, and I don't like it. And frankly, it's starting to be a bit played out now. Celebrities in headdresses are taking over the internets. Not. Cool. 

Previous entries for background on the issue:

Ke$ha, the headdress, and the trend that won't go away: http://nativeappropriations.blogspot.com/2010/03/keha-headdress-and-trend-that-wont-go.html

The Strange Case of the Hipster Headdress: http://nativeappropriations.blogspot.com/2010/02/strange-case-of-hipster-headdress.html

(Thanks Adam!)

Ke$ha, the headdress, and a trend that won't go away

I don't watch American Idol. But, this morning I woke up to a flurry of text messages and emails about Ke$ha's performance last night--looks like another pop star decided donning a headdress would be an awesome way to show how "raw" and "counterculture" she was.


Here's the selection (via MTV) with her sporting a headdress and face paint: UPDATE 2/25: MTV took down the link, so here's a youtube version. The headdress comes out at 2:26.

After the jump, some more blogger's thoughts, an Outkast flashback, and analysis.

Eté Indien: French Glamour gets in on the tribal fashion trends

Fashion Foiegras posted a first look at French Glamour's new spread on American Indian fashion trends, with the caption: "American Indian is back in style! Rock the look with a first glimpse from French Glamour." But my first question: did we ever go out of style? ;)

A lot of the Navajo-style jewelry is gorgeous, but (even with my limited french skills) it doesn't look like they're Native made. sad.

After the jump, more images from the shoot. (all taken from www.fashionfoiegras.com)

Random Appropriation of the Day!

(image via http://www.buzzinn.net)

Kinda like the hipster puppy, but worse. 

(Thanks Scott!)

North American Indians: a step by step guide to "playing Indian"

My friend Katie is currently in her first year of teaching 4th grade on the Rosebud Sioux reservation in South Dakota (go Katie!), and she sent me a scanned copy of this ridiculous book that was in her classroom library. I'll let her give the context:

"I finally started going through my classroom's library and was pretty appalled to find this book (along with the typical Indian the Cupboard and Little House on the Prairie-esque books).  I teach 4th grade on the Rosebud Reservation; 100% of my students are Lakota.  The book purports to give a history of Native Americans and a guide to Native crafts, but what it ends up being is a veritable handbook for white kids to "play Indian."  All the photos are of white kids dressed up as Indians!  I can't find one picture (other than the historical ones, of course) of a Native American child.  Even more disturbingly, the descriptions make it sound as if these white kids are authentic representations of Indian clothing, etc. The worst thing is that this book is (now was, ugh) in the library of a classroom full of Lakota children.  It's like hey kids, these pictures of white kids can teach you how to be Indian better than your own people!"

After the jump, scanned selections of the book. Prepare yourself, it's pretty bad. (All images can be clicked for a bigger version)

Really, Dictionary.com? Definition of "Indian Country"

I'm writing a paper, and was looking for a clear way to define "Indian Country" for my non-Native professor who is not well versed in Indian issues, so I googled.

Dictionary.com told me:

 Indian country:

–noun (esp. during the U.S. westward migration) any region where one was likely to encounter Indians, esp. hostile Indians.

"especially hostile Indians"? Seriously? in 2010, the accepted definition of "Indian Country" is a place where one is likely to encounter hostile Indians? The use of past tense is nice too, since we all know Indian Country is a mythical place that only existed during westward expansion. Really?

wow. 

Dictionary.com definition of Indian Country: http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/Indian+country

We're Still Here!: explaining Native persistence through Indigenous archaeology

Full disclosure: Mike was my undergraduate advisor, but I've been anxiously awaiting his book for a while now, and I think the themes resonate very well with the topics discussed on the blog.

Professor Michael Wilcox is one of the three Native faculty members at Stanford, and his research focuses on the Pueblo Revolt of 1680, and re-examining conquest narratives of Native peoples in the US. In doing his analysis, he also argues for a new way of looking at archaeology and Native populations, what he terms "Indigenous Archaeology". The Stanford Report wrote a great article about his book (with a video! and pictures!) that can be found here.

after the jump, video, quotes, and a discussion of the "ooga booga syndrome" (yes, that is a technical, scholarly term).

Indians in the Times today!: Tuba City hospital a "model" for births

(image via nytimes.com)

Nice article today in the NY Times about the Tuba City health center and its policies and practices surrounding birth, specifically focusing on their high rate of natural births after c-sections. 

I'm drawing attention to the article for a few reasons, primarily  because the article presents Native communities in a positive light, showcasing the strengths of the community and culture, and not seeing them as detriments to the "western" ways of birth. It's nice to see some positive words about Indians in a national news outlet. 

But, the article does paint Indian Health Services (IHS) like it's awesome and the best system ever--and I know many, many people who would argue otherwise. IHS is definitely not known for its quality care. 

The article can be found here, and includes some cute pictures of Indian babies too. :)

 (like this one. aww)

Happy Sunday!

NY Times--Lessons at Indian Hospital about births: http://www.nytimes.com/2010/03/07/health/07birth.html?pagewanted=1&em

U of I "Unofficial" St. Patrick's Day Shirt: Mascot is far from dead...He is just passed the f**k out

(image via aiscircle.wordpress.com)--Click the picture for bigger version

One of my friends pointed me to this shirt produced by students at the university of Illinois for their "unofficial st. patricks day" that is currently being sold through Facebook.  The t-shirt text reads:

(front) Unofficial St. Patricks Day 2010

(back) Chief Illiniwek: U of I's Unofficial mascot is far from dead...he is just passed the f**k out

If you can't tell, the "chief" is holding aloft a beer bong on the front. So many maddening things about this shirt, I don't know where to start.

In quick background, the University of Illinois finally voted to oust their Indian mascot in 2007 after years of struggle, and it continues to be an ongoing fight for Native students and their supporters on campus. The whole controversy can be read about here.

This is what "The Chief" looked like, all dressed up in his "authentic" Indian garb:

and this was the official university symbol:

There are so many campus incidences surrounding the student production of t-shirts for events--I know Stanford has had many issues, as well as Dartmouth, and now U of I. I feel like there needs to be an extension of existing hate crime or hate speech rules on campuses to these types of incidents, because often the university administration just seems to throw up their hands and say "there's nothing we can do." I think the Stanford fraternity that produced big game shirts featuring the Indian a few years ago was just asked to meet with Native students and administrators, and eventually they apologized and didn't use the shirts, but they were not threatened with any negative consequences to make them do so.

I would vote that in these university environments that purport to be promoting and fostering diversity and understanding, there must be consequences.

Original post on American Indian Studies Circle blog: http://aiscircle.wordpress.com/2010/03/02/i-was-stunned-appalling-unofficial-t-shirts-and-the-mascot-controversy/

Chief Illinewek controversy: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chief_Illiniwek#Controversy

Info on the "unofficial" st. pattys day tradition: http://www.uofiparentprograms.illinois.edu/feature%20stories/Unofficial_UIPD09.htm

(Thanks Scott!)

Spool No. 72's Coyote Navajo Rug Clutch

Another fashion appropriation sent by my sister, this one from the clothing website Spool No. 72. From perusing their website, they seem to be along the lines of Anthropologie, bohemian/vintage chic with maybe a little more "ethnic" flair thrown in there. The clutch description reads:

An exclusive for Spool No. 72. Made from a vintage Navajo rug each of our hand crafted clutches are one of a kind. The Coyote is truly a piece of art and is crafted from a native wool blend rug. Substantial in size the Coyote is adorned in breaided elk leather and a vintage horse blanket pin. 

and then, the line below:

Native hand crafted in the US

So does that mean the rug is Native made? or the whole thing is made by a Native person? There isn't any other information on the site to point one way or the other. I also happened to notice that their logo has an arrow through it :

 

And, when you click on the homepage of the company, the header reads "Spool No. 72: Rustic Native Inspired Women's clothing," but there is no further mention in the body of the page, just on the little blue bar above the browser window.

So I did some clicking, and I found their blog here. Along the right side is an section labeled "Native Inspirations" where I found even more bags:

(more after the jump plus an article I found about the boutique)